Chartres Cathedral, Notre Dame de Paris and the Basilica of Saint-Denis.
just north of Paris, was the third cathedral my friend Michel and I
visited last year. Following a soggy trip to the Puces Saint-Ouen on our last
day in Paris, Michel and I took a metro to the small town of Saint-Denis
SAINT DENIS ALWAYS STOOD OUT IN MY MIND
SAINT DENIS : The FIRST GOTHIC STRUCTURE
A textbook photo of St. Denis’ ambulatory became a lifelong
stamp in my mind; I never visited St. Denis
but continued to wonder what made it so groundbreaking.
I found out that not only was Saint Denis the first building designed in the Gothic Style, but also the resting place of the Kings and Queens of France.
It turned out that Saint Denis, for whom the Basilica is named and whose remains are buried here, is the Patron Saint of Paris. And not only does the Basilica bear Denis' name, but also the first-century road traveled by royalty from Notre Dame Cathedral to this Basilica.
but continued to wonder what made it so groundbreaking.
I found out that not only was Saint Denis the first building designed in the Gothic Style, but also the resting place of the Kings and Queens of France.
It turned out that Saint Denis, for whom the Basilica is named and whose remains are buried here, is the Patron Saint of Paris. And not only does the Basilica bear Denis' name, but also the first-century road traveled by royalty from Notre Dame Cathedral to this Basilica.
“We can pinpoint the origin of no previous style as exactly as that of Gothic. It was born between 1137 and 1144 in the rebuilding, by Abbot Suger, of the Royal Abbey church of Saint-Denis
just outside the city of Paris.”
– Horst Waldemar Janson, History of Art
SAINT DENIS ROYAL PORTALS
Suger designed and engineered the flying buttress in his work on Saint Denis.
Under Suger's direction, previously-thick Romanesque walls
became lighter, allowing for larger windows and greater amounts of light.
Suger was inspired by thin walls in Saint-Pierre-de-Montmartre (1147)
and Saint-Germain-des-Prés (1163), two churches known as the oldest in Paris.
Rib and groin vaulting used in Normand cathedrals such as Saint Martin
de Boscherville of 112 was also of importance in Suger's plan.
For the first time, Romanesque-era, semi-circular arches became pointed arches.
Ribbed vaulting was a key architectural element of Saint Denis' ambulatory as it allowed windows to be increased in quantity and in height. Suger used
the pointed arch (the single most important means of increasing light)
in addition to the ribbed vault. The combination of the two would
push interior spaces to new greater heights, with greater amounts of light.
Historians suspect that two “masters” (builders) existed
– one for each end -- and the builder of the east end must not have become involved in the project until the west end was well underway. This “master” would be given the credit as “inventor of Gothic” and builder of the chapels as well as most of the eastern portions and the crypt.
The SAINT MARY CHAPEL INSIDE THE AMBULATORY
The question remains as to Suger’s role
just outside the city of Paris.”
– Horst Waldemar Janson, History of Art
Religious leader, advisor and biographer of kings, he rebuilt the cathedral at the site of Saint Denis' abbey. The basilica Saint-Denis Europe, and Suger the father of the Gothic style.
ABBOT SUGER DEPICTED IN WINDOW AT SAINT DENIS
SUGER (pronounced soo-jair) became Abbot in 1122, raising funds and advising kings (both Louis VI and VII, his biography of Louis VI remaining an important historical resource today). After serving as Abbott for 15 years, Suger took on the reconstruction and renovation of the church which had fallen into disrepair. His work at Saint Denis would not only signify a transition from Romanesque architecture to Gothic, it would also serve as template for French cathedrals of the late 12th-century and beyond.
As for me and Michel, our first view of the basilica was a slight letdown, as it was practically black with pollution (they're in the process of cleaning it). My first view of Notre Dame was actually the same and I often forget how bright and shiny-new it looked when I finally saw it "post sandblasting (or however it is they clean them)!"
SAINT DENIS ROYAL PORTALS
Suger began the West Front of Saint Denis in 1136 by reconstructing the original Carolingian façade which had a single door. The Arch of Constantine in Rome was an inspiration for this new façade. It contained three arches, the central arch being slightly predominant. The three arches became portals at Saint Denis, allowing for greater ease of movement into and out of the structure. Suger designed a two-towered front "harmonic façade." He also incorporated
a rosette over the central portal (the first of its type in France).
a rosette over the central portal (the first of its type in France).
These two architectural features would dominate cathedrals
of Northern France as well as others to come.
The ARCH OF CONSTANTINE, ROME
Scholars agree that Suger's use of three portals in the West facade created the foundation for future Royal Portals. Although now lost, twenty "statue columns" once flanked the Portals. These statues would have represented Royal and Biblical figures. They created the archetype for the existing cathedral portals of Chartres, Notre-Dame-de-Paris and others. It is also notable that these portal sculptures portrayed a new, more peaceful ideology than did their Romanesque counterparts.
CHARTRES CATHEDRAL ROYAL PORTALS
CONSTRUCTION of the AMBULATORY
From 1140-1144 Suger oversaw construction of the new ambulatory
(also called a "chevet") and is said to have called this period
(also called a "chevet") and is said to have called this period
" three years, three months, and three days. "
Suger first planned a new crypt around the remaining the Carolingian crypt, originally dedicated in 775. This existing Romanesque-style crypt, which featured storiated and foliated capitals, was massive enough to support the new Ambulatory above. The relics of Saint Denis and other Saints were located here.
The construction of large crypts was an invention of Carolingian architects. These vaulted, underground spaces served multiple functions: 1. safeguarding precious relics, 2. providing locations for pilgrims to venerate them, 3. including burial places for wealthy individuals wishing to be buried near them, in company with 4. side chapels. All new churches required relics, and relics were not safe in a church without a crypt for housing them. Above the crypt is the famous choir with its ambulatory and radiating chapels.
Under Suger's direction, previously-thick Romanesque walls
became lighter, allowing for larger windows and greater amounts of light.
de Boscherville of 112 was also of importance in Suger's plan.
Ribbed vaulting was a key architectural element of Saint Denis' ambulatory as it allowed windows to be increased in quantity and in height. Suger used
the pointed arch (the single most important means of increasing light)
in addition to the ribbed vault. The combination of the two would
push interior spaces to new greater heights, with greater amounts of light.
EXTERIOR VIEW OF SAINT DENIS AMBULATORY
The light of the Chevet was considered the perfect location for displaying the relics of saints, so venerated by pilgrims. The open, flowing space of the ambulatory was a great predecessor of lighter spaces to come.
Scholars question the validity of Suger working alone in the design of the basilica. Lawrence R. Hoey, of the University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, asks how several parts of the basilica, built within the same decade, could look so different from one another. Architectural historians have long divided Suger’s work into two separate styles: The western end, being heavier, darker and more Romanesque in the heavy masses, in addition to its towers. The eastern end, with lighter – thin columns, and larger windows “point support” where thin columns support various points of groin vaults.
– one for each end -- and the builder of the east end must not have become involved in the project until the west end was well underway. This “master” would be given the credit as “inventor of Gothic” and builder of the chapels as well as most of the eastern portions and the crypt.
The question remains as to Suger’s role
in working with two such utterly different builders:
And because the “first master,” it has been determined, began work on the chapels
before the “second master” took over, he was capable of working in two styles.
And that either he, the first master, or Suger decided that the chapels should
differ from the bays below. The “break” between the two masters is more than an eastern - western issue, as the chapels in the western area were begun by the first. This first master planned the chapels to be more simple and austere than they turned out to be under the second master.
before the “second master” took over, he was capable of working in two styles.
And that either he, the first master, or Suger decided that the chapels should
differ from the bays below. The “break” between the two masters is more than an eastern - western issue, as the chapels in the western area were begun by the first. This first master planned the chapels to be more simple and austere than they turned out to be under the second master.
Hoey suggests that Saint-Denis’ crypt is designed in yet a third style. He contends that it is austere, but not in the way of the upper west chapels and even less so than the choir it supports. This “third style” has none of thin shafts or ribs of the west chapels or the ambulatory. Surely the architectural mysteries of the Basilica of Saint-Denis will challenge scholars for generations to come.
I V. E V O L U T I O N of S T - D E N I S : B U R I A L S I T E of K I N G S
The Basilica of Saint-Denis
KING CLOVIS (466 - 511), A DOG PORTRAYED AT HIS FEET (above, both photos)
By the end of 5th century, around 475, a church was built on the site presumed to be Saint Denis’ tomb, likely commissioned by Sainte Geneviève, a Parisian noblewoman (who came to share the title of "Patron Saint of Paris" with Saint Denis). In the latter 6th century, Queen Arégonde (Clovis' daughter-in-law) was buried at Saint Denis. The Queen's jewels were discovered in 1959, and are now on display at the Louvre.
Detail, TOMB OF DAGOBERT I (603 - 639)
In the 7th century King Dagobert I established a monastery at the site. Dagobert I, called the most powerful of the Merovingian Dynasty, fostered positive relations with the church. Dagobert believed that Saint Denis had protected him during an argument he’d had with his father. In 624 he founded a monastery at Saint Denis, which he would lavish with precious stones, gold, and land grants.
He is also said to have granted them a charter which allowed the monastery to hold a fair on the Saint Denis' Feast Day, which was also of great economic benefit. Finally, Dagobert chose the monastery as the burial place for himself and his family.
PEPIN LE BREF (715 - 768) and BERTRADA OF LAON (720 - 783)
By the latter half 8th century Pépin le Bref had the structure entirely rebuilt; it became a Carolingian (Pépin's Dynasty) Basilica. Some few vestiges of this structure remain within the crypt of today's cathedral.
it is filled with the effigies of the kings and queens of France
"For centuries, the Saint-Denis royal abbey illuminated the artistic, political and spiritual history of the Frankish world. The abbey church was designated a basilica in Merovingian times. Starting in the 4th century, the word basilica was applied to churches whose floor plans were the same as those of Roman civic buildings used for trade and the administration of justice. Often erected outside cities and over the tomb of a saint, basilicas frequently led to the development of neighborhoods or market towns, such as the city of Saint-Denis, which was built around the abbey and its economic potential... 
The church stands on the site of a Gallo-Roman cemetery, the resting place of Saint Denis, who was martyred around 250. In addition to a Carolingian crypt, part of the building consecrated by Charlemagne in 775, it retains vestiges of two structures that played a pivotal role in the development of religious architecture: Suger’s chevet, a veritable hymn to light and the manifesto of the nascent Gothic art; and the part that was rebuilt in Saint Louis’ time, whose vast transept was designed to house royal tombs. " -seine saint-denis tourisme
By the end of 5th century, around 475, a church was built on the site presumed to be Saint Denis’ tomb, likely commissioned by Sainte Geneviève, a Parisian noblewoman (who came to share the title of "Patron Saint of Paris" with Saint Denis). In the latter 6th century, Queen Arégonde (Clovis' daughter-in-law) was buried at Saint Denis. The Queen's jewels were discovered in 1959, and are now on display at the Louvre.
He is also said to have granted them a charter which allowed the monastery to hold a fair on the Saint Denis' Feast Day, which was also of great economic benefit. Finally, Dagobert chose the monastery as the burial place for himself and his family.
By the latter half 8th century Pépin le Bref had the structure entirely rebuilt; it became a Carolingian (Pépin's Dynasty) Basilica. Some few vestiges of this structure remain within the crypt of today's cathedral.
With the exceptions of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette, beheaded during the French Revolution, every king and queen is depicted in effigy inside Saint Denis.
Louis XVI and Marie - Antoinette,
rather, are shown in prayer supplicating on their knees.
Louis XVI and Marie - Antoinette,
rather, are shown in prayer supplicating on their knees.
in the crypt and basilica.
V. R u e S A I N T - D E N I S : H I S T O R I C R O Y A L R O A D
"The Rue du Faubourg Saint Denis is a section
of one of the most important streets
n o t o n l y i n P a r i s, b u t i n F r a n c e.
It is part of the royal road
from Île de la Cité to the Basilica of Saint Denis,
taken by all of the kings for their official entrance into Paris."
"It is older than the kings of France, though, because
the road was created by the Romans in the 1st century."
As Saint-Denis became the burial site of Kings, a royal processional route from Notre Dame Cathedral was established.
Beginning at the river Seine, the road is called
"Rue Saint Denis" until it reaches the 10th arrondissement,
and the limits of the old city walls. At this point its name changes to
"Rue du Faubourg (as in faux-bourg or no-longer-the-city-bourg)
Saint Denis." The triumphal arch (La Porte Saint Denis)
replaces a medieval gate from Charles V's old city walls,
and celebrates Louis XIV's military victories.
VIEW OF THE PORTE ST-DENIS FROM THE RUE DU FAUBOURG ST-DENIS
RUE SAINT DENIS began as a 1st - century Roman Road.
By the 5th century it was a pilgrimage route to Saint Denis, and by the 8th century, a "royal highway" of sorts, used for victory parades and funeral trains. Kings and Queens returning to Paris from their coronations (in the cathedral at Reims) followed this route into the city. Upon their deaths the traveled the same route to burial at Saint Denis."Rue Saint Denis" until it reaches the 10th arrondissement,
and the limits of the old city walls. At this point its name changes to
"Rue du Faubourg (as in faux-bourg or no-longer-the-city-bourg)
Saint Denis." The triumphal arch (La Porte Saint Denis)
replaces a medieval gate from Charles V's old city walls,
and celebrates Louis XIV's military victories.
RUE SAINT DENIS began as a 1st - century Roman Road.
I found the story of Saint Denis
as interesting as that of the Basilica !
as interesting as that of the Basilica !
(either from Greece or from the South of France; Lyon or Marseille)
a Roman province known at the time as Lutèce.
SAINTS ELUTHERIUS, DENIS AND RUSTICUS
“Denis had been sent to Lutèce to convert the Gallo - Roman Parisians,
who were notorious for their pagan ways.”
and disapproving Roman authorities condemned him to death.
Denis and his companions, Elutherius and Rusticus,
were imprisoned at Glaucus on the Île de la Cité,
where today a flower market stands (Place Louis Lepine).
of present-day Montmartre. The Chapelle des Martyres,
at 11, rue Yvonne-le-Tac, is a church built
upon the site where legend says Denis was beheaded.
Denis and his companions, Elutherius and Rusticus,
were imprisoned at Glaucus on the Île de la Cité,
where today a flower market stands (Place Louis Lepine).
DETAIL, CHAPELLE DES MARTYRES
Denis, Elutherius and Rusticus were then taken to the base of present-day Montmartre. The Chapelle des Martyres,
at 11, rue Yvonne-le-Tac, is a church built
upon the site where legend says Denis was beheaded.
MAP OF MONTMARTRE:
NOTE "RUE YVONNE-LE-TAC" (mentioned above) crosses "RUE DES MARTYRS," as well as "RUE SAINT-RUSTIQUE" (upper section), and "RUE SAINT-ELUTHERE," off of Place du Tertre, named for Denis' companions.
SAINT DENIS STATUE at PLACE SUZANNE BUISSON, in MONTMARTRE
Until I began looking into these three Gothic Cathedrals, I never realized how prevalent Saint-Denis' presence in Paris truly was. For example, his image appears at least four times, if not six, inside and out of Notre Dame Cathedral. His statue also appears in a small square just west of Sacre Coeur, place Suzanne Buisson. It should come as no surprise, given that he's the patron saint of Paris (along with Sainte-Genevieve).
In short, each of these three cathedrals has its distinct identity:
The Abbey of SAINT-DENIS claims the inception of Gothic architecture, NOTRE DAME de Paris claims the lore of Gargoyles and Victor Hugo,
the center of Paris, and the most-visited cathedral in France, and
CHARTRES Cathedral claims the title of UNESCO World Heritage Site (one of only four cathedrals in all of France to do so,
alongside those those at Amiens, Bourges and Reims).
In the end, many thanks go to Michel for inspiring these trips!
VIEW OF SAINT DENIS VIA THE STADE DE FRANCE
Finally, the days of metros, buses and cabs to the Paris airport are always bittersweet. Michel was staying one day longer than my husband and I, so we took a bus from the Opéra Garnier to the airport. As we reached the Péripherique (beltway around the city) my shoulders sagged a little . . . the city was truly behind me now. It was one of those days when the sky is almost black with clouds but the sun still shines in various spots.
Back to Michel and me, we thought the windows at Saint Denis were not quite as vibrant in color as those of Chartres
– again, we were fortunate to have gone during a sunny period.
LIGHT THROUGH SAINT DENIS' STAINED GLASS WINDOWS REFLECTED ON ITS FLOORS
While visiting this third great cathedral, in as many days, it was surprising to realize that Notre Dame de Paris - the “highest” gothic of the three - had the least brilliant light and color. Chartres’ and Saint-Denis’ Rose Windows could not compare to the size and high-gothic, intricate tracery of Notre-Dame’s, but Notre Dame's interior held much less of the ethereal light and color of both Saint-Denis and Chartres.In short, each of these three cathedrals has its distinct identity:
The Abbey of SAINT-DENIS claims the inception of Gothic architecture, NOTRE DAME de Paris claims the lore of Gargoyles and Victor Hugo,
the center of Paris, and the most-visited cathedral in France, and
CHARTRES Cathedral claims the title of UNESCO World Heritage Site (one of only four cathedrals in all of France to do so,
alongside those those at Amiens, Bourges and Reims).
In the end, many thanks go to Michel for inspiring these trips!
VIEW OF SAINT DENIS VIA THE STADE DE FRANCE
Finally, the days of metros, buses and cabs to the Paris airport are always bittersweet. Michel was staying one day longer than my husband and I, so we took a bus from the Opéra Garnier to the airport. As we reached the Péripherique (beltway around the city) my shoulders sagged a little . . . the city was truly behind me now. It was one of those days when the sky is almost black with clouds but the sun still shines in various spots.
Through the window I took in an unexpected, high-pitched, verdigris roof…
and thought: " Saint Denis! " There it was -- it’s roof shining in the sun
-- a jewel in the midst of the drab northern suburbs.
It was a WOW - moment; and what a fitting way to endcap my trip to Paris.
(I like to think my art history professors would approve of this rédaction!)
SOURCES:
PHOTOS:
I. The Basilica of Saint Denis / The First Gothic Structure :
1. www.legacy.earlham.edu, 2. aerial photo of St-Denis via Corbis Images,
II. Abbot Suger : Originator of the Gothic Style :
1. "Portrait of Suger, Abbot of St Denis 1082-1152" 1788, by Antoine Louis Francois Sergent-Marceau 2. "Suger Presenting the Tree of Jesse" window at St. Denis
III. The West Facade / Construction of the Ambulatory :
1. West Portals of Saint Denis, via the State University of NY, 2. arch of constantine, rome, 3. Old Romanesque Portals of Chartres, 4. The Crypt of Saint Denis via bluffton, 5. www.legacy.earlham.edu,
6. unknown, 7. via State University of NY, 8. Saint Denis' windows, interior 9. flickr
IV. Burial Place of Kings : Evolution of Saint Denis :
1. praying hands, detail of Catherine dei Medici, via linternaute 2. Pic 1 of Dagobert I via Pantheon Photos by John Ecker 3. Pic 2 of Dagobert I via hemis 4. Tomb of Dagobert I, 5. Fred Relaix, 6. bluffton
V. Rue Saint Denis : Historic Royal Road :
1. "La Porte Saint Denis" 1852 by Paul Vogler, via european paintings, 2. wikimedia, 3., 4. unknown
VI. The Legend of Saint Denis : Patron Saint of Paris :
1. Notre Dame Cathedral website, 2. St Denis Church, 3. unknown, 4. detail, Chapelle du Martyr
5. detail, Chapelle du Martyr, 6. section, map of montmartre: unknown, 7. St. Denis, statue Pl. S. Buisson, via science et magie.
additional photos:
1. detail, floor of St. Denis, unknown, 2. Stade de France with view of St-Denis Basilica, via corbis images, 3. view of Saint Denis via original-france.com,
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